Onions are not the only sweet thing made by Italians in Walla Walla
Italians were instrumental in bringing winemaking to Washington and the state hasn't looked back since they started
The first known planting of grapevines in what is today Washington State was at Fort Vancouver in 1825, and the first Washington winery was founded in 1874 by John Galler of East Wenatchee. The earliest trace of a wine industry in Walla Walla goes all the way back to the 1850s, when European settlers first began to cultivate vines to make their own homemade wines. From humble beginnings, the winemaking industry eventually shifted into a commercial enterprise, with many Italians at the forefront.
How Italian Immigrants Shaped the Wine Industry of Walla Walla
Walla Walla, a Native American word for “many waters”, is a city in southeastern Washington that is famous for its sweet onions and its wine industry. With more than 100 wineries and nearly 2,000 acres of vineyards, Walla Walla is a destination for wine lovers who appreciate the unique terroir and variety of the region. But did you know that the roots of Walla Walla winemaking go back to the 1800s, when the first Italian immigrants settled in the valley and brought their skills and traditions with them?
The history and legacy of the Italian winemakers who helped define the wine industry of Walla Walla, including some of the wineries that continue their heritage today, have been written about in detail in the book, The Wine Project: Washington State’s Winemaking History. The first vinifera plants arrived in this area and were planted by missionaries and French-Canadian fur traders, but it was an Italian who really got the winemaking ball rolling.
The First Italian Winemaker: Frank Orselli
Frank Orselli was born in Lucca, Italy, in 1833. He immigrated to America as a young man, served in the U.S. Army, and arrived at Fort Walla Walla in 1857. After his discharge, he decided to stay in the area, attracted by the cheap land and the growing population of gold miners from neighboring Idaho.
Orselli bought 180 acres of land that he planted with vegetables, grapes, and fruit trees. He also owned a bakery and a grocery store, where he sold his produce, baked goods, tobacco, liquor, and wine. His store became one of the first tasting rooms in Walla Walla.
Orselli was a pioneer in winemaking, producing wine from both white and red grapes. He experimented with different varieties and techniques, and soon gained a reputation for his quality wines. He started first with native North American vitis labrusca grapes for homemade wine then switched to vitis vinifera to build a commercial grape crop and wine business and sold cuttings to others who wanted to do the same. By 1882, locally produced wine was available in all of Walla Walla’s saloons.
Orselli died in 1906, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and excellence that inspired generations of winemakers to follow, including NAWICO, which stands for National Wine Company. NAWICO was a Seattle-based winery founded in 1934 by several grape importers, including three Italians—Dominic Cappellero, Joe Carbonatto, and Philip Sugia—who had some questionable activities during Prohibition. Italian-strong NAWICO merged with the German-run Pommerelle fruit wines in 1954 to become American Wine Growers, but I digress.
The Italian Community: Saturno, Tachi, Locati, Arbini
Orselli was not the only Italian to make wine in Walla Walla. In fact, he was followed by many other immigrants who came from different regions of Italy, such as Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Tuscany, and Sicily. They brought with them their diverse cultures, dialects, cuisines, and winemaking styles.
Some of the prominent names among the Italian winemakers were Saturno, Tachi, Locati, and Arbini. They established vineyards and wineries in various locations around the valley, such as Mill Creek Road, Peppers Bridge Road, Yellowhawk Creek Road, and Spring Valley Road.
They also formed a tight-knit community that supported each other through hard times and celebrated together during festivals and holidays. They shared their knowledge and expertise with each other and with newcomers who wanted to learn the art of winemaking.
The Italian winemakers faced many challenges throughout their history. They had to deal with pests, diseases, frosts, droughts, floods, fires, prohibition, wars, taxes, regulations, competition, and changing consumer preferences. They also had to adapt to the local climate and soil conditions that were different from their peninsular homeland.
Despite these difficulties, they persevered and thrived. They contributed to the economic development and cultural diversity of Walla Walla. They also created a rich wine heritage that is still evident today.
The Modern Wineries: Balboa Winery and Leonetti Cellar
Today, there are several wineries in Walla Walla that trace their roots back to the Italian immigrants. Two examples are Balboa Winery and Leonetti Cellar.
Balboa Winery was founded in 2005 by Tom Glase on Peppers Bridge Road. Glase is a descendant of Frank Orselli’s sister-in-law. He learned winemaking from his grandfather, Frank Saturno Jr., who was also a nephew of Orselli. Glase’s wines reflect his family’s tradition of quality and innovation. He works closely with the grape growers to produce wines that are true to the varietal, terroir, and vintage. He also experiments with different blends and styles to create distinctive wines that express his vision.
Leonetti Cellar is a powerhouse brand in the Walla Walla region with Gary Figgins at its helm. His maternal grandparents planted Black Prince grapes in the valley as far back as 1906. Gary is one of a few winemakers who produces wine from Italian varietals such as Sangiovese and Aglianico. The former is very difficult to grow, but the family has been told they produce the best Sangiovese outside of Tuscany. The latter is an ancient Southern Italian variety seldom grown outside of Calabria and was planted to honor Gary’s grandparents’ ancestral hometown.
These are just two examples of the wineries that carry on the legacy of the Italian winemakers in Walla Walla. They are part of a vibrant and diverse wine scene that offers something for everyone.
Despite some who believe the wine industry in Washington started much later in the 1950s and ‘60s with Associated Vintners (now Columbia Winery) and American Wine Growers (now Chateau Ste. Michelle), I hope this article and its references have been able to show that not only was it started almost a century earlier, but that Italians played a big part in both the winemaking and grape growing industry’s growth.
If you are interested in learning more about the history and culture of the Italian winemakers in Walla Walla, you can visit the Fort Walla Walla Museum, which has a permanent exhibit dedicated to them. You can also check out the book, WALLA WALLA: A TOWN BUILT TO BE A CITY, by Elizabeth Gibson, which has a chapter on the Italian community.
I hope you enjoyed this blog post and learned something new about the Italian winemaking efforts in Walla Walla. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below. Cheers!
P.S. Be sure to read about Italian winemaking in my debut nonfiction book, ITALIANS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST. Available wherever books are sold.